The grace and lightness, full and empty, the transparency, the emphasis of an iconoclast structuralism elegant, rigorous, essential. She is the woman Guillermo Mariotto, creative director of the fashion house Gattinoni that for next spring - summer was guided to his collection Lab - Couture parading in the Eur district, inside the Cloud, the evanescent and poetic surrealism and imaginary nebulae of the majestic architectural work signed by the great Italian architects Massimiliano and Doriana Fuksas. “ Not only the heavenly bodies, elements of aesthetic, romantic - explains Guillermo Mariotto - But the metaphor of an existential condition. Vagueness, indefiniteness, uncertainty of life, disorientation. We feel as if suspended .... - Adds the creative director of the fashion house Gattinoni - Yet it is precisely in these times that we need , more than ever, the lightness necessary to be able to distance themselves from the problems , forced , then , to ask ourselves before the reality with greater awareness and wisdom”. Slips inside the immense rectangular glass and steel 40 meters tall, the woman Gattinoni. A natural scenery art work of Massimiliano and Doriana Fuksas, grandiose project, futuristic, according Mariotto. Accompanied by the music and the words of Fabrizio de André, once again clouds, clouds of course, ( go , come for a real one thousand are fake and put there between us and the sky ... ) dresses feature refinement, refined and exhausting manual labor. Silk tulle with embroidery, worn over leggings illuminated crystals, radiating concentric bodies volumes. As the Cloud of Fuksas. But simplicity is also sobriety, simplicity, bon ton. Mariotto launches for next spring - summer shirt dress for the evening for cocktails, for the day. Dresses in pure linen, with embroidery, white very white, almost virginal, but also blue chesterfield, with severe folds, lightened by transparencies, always accompanied by important hats. Headwear that turn into visors and veils, framing the face like the wings of kites. Interchangeable heads , editable with a simple hand gesture. They chase the clouds, then, in the next Gattinoni spring - summer collection 2014. Quotations, references, pictorial and literary references. Aristophanes, Lucretius, William Shakespeare, Guy de Maupassant, Ugo Foscolo, Gabriele D’Annunzio , Bertold Brecht ... next to the unforgettable “cloud in love”of Correggio. Clean lines, strict geometry for aerodynamic suit like imaginary kites, made of double duchesse applications with organza and tulle. Shades terse, clear, pure. The pink flesh, pale yellow powder, pistachio green.
Guillermo Mariotto uses a particular computer program, the Vector, which composes and decomposes images, characters, icons and effigies, statues evoking recognizable signs and undefined, like the clouds. Birds, animals, insects, flowers, fruits… Precious machining and embroidery, thumbnails and watermarks. Gold and lace, satin, peau d’ange, lamé fabric and leather jackets . Dresses identity, but sometimes very different. Transparencies (again yet) to put them in tulle organza ( single output ). Black and white, positive and negative, good and evil, vices and virtues. The innocence victory, the triumph of a disguised hypocrisy. But only on stage, not in life. Why in the coming collections reigns supreme once again, the bride. Mini dresses for young girls in flower, woven in cotton macramé, necklines and transparency. A woman apparently décontractée, finally at peace with herself, that parading on the catwalk for the Gattinoni Spring-Summer, 2014, but has not lost his poise, his charisma, his wonderful, irreducible, stubborn inflexibility and stubbornness in being able to take a stand. A single sign during the parade. The suede shoes with a narrow ankle on which stand the birds - jewel of Gianni de Benedittis, designer of the brand futuroRemoto, furniture, exchangeable, convertible, like the necklace muselière, made of gold, that evokes the futuristic buildings of Fuksa’s architectural masterpiece. At the artist Federico Paris the task of creating precious clutch, resin sculptures, hand painted. Anchors clouds, dream, imagine, scrutinize, fickle and capricious.
As He wrote the French poet Victor Hugo,’’ At the end of your beautiful cloud looks like we mortals!’‘.