“I have a crown on my head and I turn my neck slowly with a majestic movement that echoes my thoughts. And, despite this, I always feel inclined to enjoy the beauties of life, the sublime grace of music or the splendour of nature and art.” “Private Renaissance”- Maria Bellonci
The incantation of the Maya - prophetic forecasts - 2012, the year of a new Rebirth. A collective illumination that envisages a real, concrete, possible change of life through the medium of beauty, balance, a search for proportions and colour. According to Guillermo Mariotto, the Maison’s creative director, the predominant themes featured in the Gattinoni Couture collection for the forthcoming Spring-Summer season scheduled to be presented at Santo Spirito in Sassia’s Sala Lancisis range “from Lorenzo the Magnificent to present-day times – periods of revolution and discovery, challenge, triumphs and new conquests. Nobility, grace and power. For example Margherita of Austria, Lucrezia Borgia, Duchess of Ferrara, and Isabella d’Este or Caterina Sforza. “However,” – as the designer then goes on to explain - “my Renaissance is only a pretext, an idea, a faint echo rather than a tangible, reliable reference.”
In short, Guillermo Mariotto’s Renaissance is one that is taken out of context. Hints of young girls of ethereal sweetness. Botticelli’s Allegory of Spring, Leonardo’s Lady with an Ermine, universes that are light years away, a tenuous, delicate, almost imperceptible form of magic. Seduction translated in the form of linge-couture. Worked, printed, shaded organza, lamé lace intarsia. An ironic, almost funky reawakening. Young girls getting ready for an “after-hour”. Pink, wisteria and white, the colours of passion flowers, predominate. The flowers that the Farnese family introduced to the courts of Europe. Painted, stylized, shaded, studied in detail, evaluated down to the very last microcosm. Tender colours which the designer accentuates and uses even in his creation dedicated to the euro. “Thousands of bank notes of various denominations shaded in hues of white, black, green and wisteria enfold the body like an embrace.” – says Mariotto – “The head is topped by a marvellous hat-piece of armour designed by Leonardo da Vinci, re-engineered by Guillermo Mariotto and created in PVC thanks to the mastery of the artisan tradition of Velia, one of Rome’s oldest, most renowned milliners. A porte-bonheur dress, a maternity dress, a metaphor. The Rebirth of the Italian economy. Which has not yet taken place but is still in gestation”.
For the new 2012 Spring-Summer collection, Guillermo Mariotto designs nature. Flora and fauna. Details, sources of inspiration and creativity. Especially as regards embroidery. Passion flowers, naturally, but also jelly fish and sea urchins.
Details and nuances. Fusions, hybrids. Laminated pleats, fluorescent, pleated organzas, transparent chiffon, applications reminiscent of the deposits of the layers of mother of pearl. Silver, gold, coral, light blue and ivory. Guillermo Mariotto recreates anthropomorphic, imaginative forms. Floating beings that live and dissolve in water. Like the universe of Moses Pendleton and his Momix. Like the devoré chiffon dress in shades of grey featuring a bodice embroidered in silver and opaline chips, painted, iridescent organza resembling waterfalls. Botticelli’s Flora, the filaments of the jelly fish. A synthesis. Symbolic, allegorical. As regards evening gowns, maison Gattinoni’s designer reinstates the tradition of couture working techniques and embroidery. Silks, laminated gazar, satin and mikado but also experimentations such as coated jacquard chiffon and PVC treated as if it were a fabric. Volumes and asymmetries.
Scolls and sculptorial cuts. Powerful women, always “on top”, never fazed, even insofar as clothing is concerned. Just like Italian Renaissance women. Guillermo Mariotto chooses pastel colours. Powder, sage green, mint, mother of pearl and pink. Interwoven with platinum trimmings, silver with iridescent PVC, aquamarines, crystals. Details and artisan working techniques. Luxury and elegance, just like the jewellery by Gianni De Benedittis, designer of the Futuroremoto brand, created exclusively for the Gattinoni Couture collection. Revolutionary rings in gold and diamonds that borrow inspiration from Leonardo’s drawings on anatomy. His Fan-rings , a “must- have” for a playful breath of summer glam, are also crafted in gold and diamonds.
Mariotto concludes by saying, “We are ready to welcome in this new Renaissance, which I have interpreted in an almost jovial spirit, for a fashion that, though daring, is nevertheless still strongly anchored to a marvellous balance of shapes. A rebirth, even in haute couture, in the sense of being a collective illumination rather than a form of destruction, light that irradiates and not the end of the world. A new dominion is looming on the horizon, a cosmos that I like to define as “rinasci-mentale” (mental re birth), almost an invitation, a sign, an exhortation”. The last dress that will be presented is a sort of emblem. A tribute to the Maya, to their writings, to the symbols of their calendar. To 2012. A year of change, of Rebirth. Memories of signs, 3D reliefs. See-through fabrics and contemporary materials. The challenge that awaits haute couture.”