“Luckily for us, this vitality of excess, which rises so victoriously, insuppressibly and emotionally from the ashes, is a trademark feature of we Italians, demonstrating how the need for grace and a touch of beauty lives on within us, an intimately civil need for something that transcends the pure and simple fact of mere existence…” Irene Brin
The wait is over
Creation violated, nature in flight, humanity in search of new certainties and, above all, a lifestyle that will lead us in discovery of a new mysticism. With his forthcoming Spring-Summer 2011 collection, Guillermo Mariotto, creative director of maison Gattinoni, launches a cry of alarm muted by his profound faith in human nature.“Especially in young people - explains Mariotto - in their search for change and renewal. An emotional tension that motivates them to pursue truth and beauty. Theirs is a contagious, regenerating, redeeming force”. Mariotto has chosen to present his fashion show like a 3D docu-film. “In the end, even fashion is beauty, poetry - he says - an illustrated canvas, an ephemeral, fleeting sketch that, at times, gives life to a work of art. When it comes down to basics - he adds - we are nothing but witnesses of an experience. Like Caravaggio with his paintings, we too imbue garments with life”. Rich, ultra-rich even opulent, like the new cities of the future. Shanghai, Rio de Janeiro, with its Copacabana beach and Dubai to which Mariotto dedicates metropolitan chic dresses. Glass, mirrors. Light, opulence, luxury. Metropolitan architectures embroidered on fabrics, dresses ‘slit’ at the sides by micro panier. The East, tradition, a desired, sought-after dedication. All in shades of smoky grey. Smog, pale skies, fog. Areas violated, contaminated, desecrated. But the earth resurges. On the catwalk of Santo Spirito in Sassia, Gattinoni showcases sheath dresses enfolded by shawls-gilets. Buds that open to life, mysterious beetles. Pink and apricot fading into melon, green and mauve. Metamorphoses, exercises in style with digital prints on organdi and chiffon. For the forthcoming Spring-Summer season, the designer chooses bare arms, even in suits. In the new collection trousers are out. Trousers in, jersey and duchesse, together with body-hugging dresses that contour the body to reveal architectural inspirations. Light, ultra-light and sophisticated in pleats, bias-cuts and horizontal cuts, see-through fabrics and the magic of spirals. Grandeur and pesanteur to emphasize the lightness of the dress. Almost a symbolic, linguistic oxymoron. A perfect example is the jewel bag which Gianni De Benedittis, designer of the futuro Remoto brand, has designed for the collection. Clutch bags and pochettes in gold and silver finished with zoomorphic sculptural handles, with precious coral branches featuring alongside the new energy ring, a highly original ring in yellow gold, featuring a small solar panel surrounded by rubies, capable of powering a small service light. The new collection by maison Gattinoni plays on chiaroscuro, on darkness and the night, on desecrated nature and libertarian yearnings. A black and white film. A thriller. Low-profile and high-profile garments. Guillermo Mariotto rewrites our history on fabrics. He contaminates them with drops of ink, he redesigns a labyrinth of rectangles and luminescent geometries like shattered mirrors, disintegrating oceans. Symbols of destruction of the eco-system, of never forgotten earthquakes, of tsunami and disorders of the mind. And yet, even black has its own beauty and opulence.
The creative director of maison Gattinoni develops his garments starting from images of the memory. Coats cut like shells, shirts with hints of a Baroque, courtesan-like style, wide sleeves and rounded shapes. Bats, moths and nocturnal animals, our most secret passions. Mariotto’s Spring-Summer 2011 collections speaks of intriguing rotundity. “Circularity is anti-crisis - he explains - the curved shape represents fullness, harmony. It signifies softness, femininity. A profound, relentless desire. Above all light”. After the night and darkness, white and light colours invade the collection. Opaque, shaded, diaphanous, see-through and vivid. Solid, intense, forceful light. The power of a new mysticism, of a new spirituality. Doubled fabrics and double silk duchesse for dresses featuring harsh pleats that complement the waist, with strong, well-defined shoulders. Invisible armour reminiscent of the warrior angels depicted by Raffaello or Beato Angelico. Shirts, often see-through, are obtained by mixing fabrics and macramé lace. Cut, divided and torn. Heavily-worked patchwork like the outfit made with more than 1600 micro pleats and more than 3000 pins. Mariotto also presents his draped garments in Hall Lancisi. Stream-lined, helicoidal sculptures. Futuristic. Once again inspiration is drawn from the colours of nature. Yellow, red, Middleton blue and ochre. Hand-painted fabrics are used for his mise du soir . Vibrant nuances. Silver, pink, coral, lemon yellow and lilac. Dresses featuring plunging necklines, bare arms and cinched waists open up towards the bottom. Laser-cuts. Perfection contemporary-chic. Gattinoni’s brides do not care for veils. Only one will grace the catwalk sporting luxurious shaded, amber-coloured lace. For celebration to 150 years of Italian Unity, maison Gattinoni pays tribute to Bel Paese with a garment that honours the Italian flag, Risorgimento pomp, issues about unification that have never been resolved which the celebration has awoken, thus motivating debate and confrontation. Questions to which no-one, as yet, has been able to give any answers.