Feminism and femininity, restoring, renewing changes, sometimes whispered, others shouted. For the incoming Couture No Season collection Guillermo Mariotto revisited and restyled, as he himself stated, over a thousand Gattinoni outfits; looking back to the past yet living the present and looking into the future.
‘I had such a fun time picking and remodeling over a thousand Gattinoni outfits of the past’ says Guillermo Mariotto. ‘…yet nothing of the catwalk should be taken for granted, surprise is the key word’. Guillermo Mariotto continues: ‘I love women. I live and create for women. I refuse to accept that women are still battered and disrespected. I willingly joined the We Do it Together #wedoittogether no-profit association together with numerous other men. I am convinced that together we can see paradigm shifts in gender equality.
The Gattinoni woman is confident and extremely aware of herself, a result of those women who before them fought against discrimination and abuse: Olympe de Gouges, Mary Wollstonecraft, Emmeline Pankhurst, Simone de Beauvoir, Angela Davis, Agnese de Donato, Adele Cambria, Giosetta Fioroni just to name a few.
The Gattinoni woman borrows her boyfiend’s shirt with voile, soft ties at the neck or exuberantly ruffled cuffs. A woman able to show off her femininity without becoming ‘cheap’ or vulgar.
“If a little dreaming is dangerous, the cure for it is not to dream less, but to dream more, to dream all the time.” Marcel Proust
Part angel and part demon, the young Gattinoni woman lives in a fairyland wood, a down-to-earth dreamer. Dreams her lethal weapon. Soft, puffy look contrasting with a more severe strict look. Guillermo Mariotto magically turns a classic stripped pyjama into a unique organza and silk masterpiece.
Sacred and profane food, eschatological geometries, measurement, proportion, shape, content and colour. Fashion is nourishment, food. A delectable dish. Above all excellence. Like High Fashion. Guillermo Mariotto, creative director of Maison Gattinoni, has signed the collection for the forthcoming Spring/Summer season, drawing inspiration from universes of absolute perfection, that co-exist in our day-to-day lives. Elegance, allure… comestibles at Open Colonna, the kingdom of chef Antonello Colonna.
Select cuisine featured in Mariotto’s choice of fabrics, materials, embroidery, cuts, sartorial vertigo and exemplary, impeccable geometries, in a new line launched especially for this collection, le joli panier. The pre-revolutionary noblewomen at the court of Marie Antonietta of France, have long since been forgotten. Guillermo Mariotto swears that the joli panier is perfect for all women. It’s chic, low-key and not cumbersome. For thin, slim silhouettes, for those who wish to dare or for women who simply wish to hide/conceal. In this new collection, garments are fused and confused with food, becoming a delectable cult object.
Expo 2015, scheduled to be held in Milan, inspires and stimulates creativity. Thus, Gattinoni’s creations for the forthcoming Spring/Summer flaunt plats exquis. They mask continuous references to culinary art. “Fusion is fashion”, says Guillermo Mariotto. In food and in fashion. And while chef Antonello Colonna is set to welcome guests with his sophisticated specialities, the creations proposed by Guillermo Mariotto are no less appetizing. Amidst tables laden with new renaissance flavours, mannequins, representing delicious dishes, take centre stage.
Bread is used to make extra-large, wide-brimmed, ultra-hot headgear while freshly baked iced and crystallized biscuits and savoury snacks are embroidered on collars and cleavages. Dinner jackets are reminiscent of those worn by aristocrats and unimpeachable maitres (remember Downton Abbey?), while coated silk-screen printing Crochet hooks and filet working techniques conjure up the exquisite meals described in ‘The Leopard’, those works of art that are handed down from mother to daughter in Sicily. Conversely, full skirts bring to mind Japanese origami, the technique whereby table napkins are folded to open up like flowers. A whole world is revived, even in the new colours featured in the collection. Menthol, currants, yellow olive oil, cinnamon featuring nuances of caramel, black licorice, strawberry pink and white glacé cream. And among the jewelry, particularly worthy of note are the creations that designer Gianni De Benedittis, of the future Remoto brand, has created especially for Maison Gattinoni’s Spring/Summer collection. Flowers and fruit, earrings and sets of kinetic sunflowers, bread bracelets set with precious stones and platinum collier-fourchette entertwined with strands of precious spaghetti.
Madame de Vinteul
The incantation of the Maya - prophetic forecasts - 2012, the year of a new Rebirth. A collective illumination that envisages a real, concrete, possible change of life through the medium of beauty, balance, a search for proportions and colour. According to Guillermo Mariotto, the Maison’s creative director, the predominant themes featured in the Gattinoni Couture collection for the forthcoming Spring-Summer season scheduled to be presented at Santo Spirito in Sassia’s Sala Lancisis range “from Lorenzo the Magnificent to present-day times – periods of revolution and discovery, challenge, triumphs and new conquests. Nobility, grace and power. For example Margherita of Austria, Lucrezia Borgia, Duchess of Ferrara, and Isabella d’Este or Caterina Sforza. “However,” – as the designer then goes on to explain - “my Renaissance is only a pretext, an idea, a faint echo rather than a tangible, reliable reference.”
In short, Guillermo Mariotto’s Renaissance is one that is taken out of context. Hints of young girls of ethereal sweetness. Botticelli’s Allegory of Spring, Leonardo’s Lady with an Ermine, universes that are light years away, a tenuous, delicate, almost imperceptible form of magic. Seduction translated in the form of linge-couture. Worked, printed, shaded organza, lamé lace intarsia. An ironic, almost funky reawakening. Young girls getting ready for an “after-hour”. Pink, wisteria and white, the colours of passion flowers, predominate. The flowers that the Farnese family introduced to the courts of Europe. Painted, stylized, shaded, studied in detail, evaluated down to the very last microcosm. Tender colours which the designer accentuates and uses even in his creation dedicated to the euro. “Thousands of bank notes of various denominations shaded in hues of white, black, green and wisteria enfold the body like an embrace.” – says Mariotto – “The head is topped by a marvellous hat-piece of armour designed by Leonardo da Vinci, re-engineered by Guillermo Mariotto and created in PVC thanks to the mastery of the artisan tradition of Velia, one of Rome’s oldest, most renowned milliners. A porte-bonheur dress, a maternity dress, a metaphor. The Rebirth of the Italian economy. Which has not yet taken place but is still in gestation”.
For the new 2012 Spring-Summer collection, Guillermo Mariotto designs nature. Flora and fauna. Details, sources of inspiration and creativity. Especially as regards embroidery. Passion flowers, naturally, but also jelly fish and sea urchins.
Details and nuances. Fusions, hybrids. Laminated pleats, fluorescent, pleated organzas, transparent chiffon, applications reminiscent of the deposits of the layers of mother of pearl. Silver, gold, coral, light blue and ivory. Guillermo Mariotto recreates anthropomorphic, imaginative forms. Floating beings that live and dissolve in water. Like the universe of Moses Pendleton and his Momix. Like the devoré chiffon dress in shades of grey featuring a bodice embroidered in silver and opaline chips, painted, iridescent organza resembling waterfalls. Botticelli’s Flora, the filaments of the jelly fish. A synthesis. Symbolic, allegorical. As regards evening gowns, maison Gattinoni’s designer reinstates the tradition of couture working techniques and embroidery. Silks, laminated gazar, satin and mikado but also experimentations such as coated jacquard chiffon and PVC treated as if it were a fabric. Volumes and asymmetries.
Scolls and sculptorial cuts. Powerful women, always “on top”, never fazed, even insofar as clothing is concerned. Just like Italian Renaissance women. Guillermo Mariotto chooses pastel colours. Powder, sage green, mint, mother of pearl and pink. Interwoven with platinum trimmings, silver with iridescent PVC, aquamarines, crystals. Details and artisan working techniques. Luxury and elegance, just like the jewellery by Gianni De Benedittis, designer of the Futuroremoto brand, created exclusively for the Gattinoni Couture collection. Revolutionary rings in gold and diamonds that borrow inspiration from Leonardo’s drawings on anatomy. His Fan-rings , a “must- have” for a playful breath of summer glam, are also crafted in gold and diamonds.
Mariotto concludes by saying, “We are ready to welcome in this new Renaissance, which I have interpreted in an almost jovial spirit, for a fashion that, though daring, is nevertheless still strongly anchored to a marvellous balance of shapes. A rebirth, even in haute couture, in the sense of being a collective illumination rather than a form of destruction, light that irradiates and not the end of the world. A new dominion is looming on the horizon, a cosmos that I like to define as “rinasci-mentale” (mental re birth), almost an invitation, a sign, an exhortation”. The last dress that will be presented is a sort of emblem. A tribute to the Maya, to their writings, to the symbols of their calendar. To 2012. A year of change, of Rebirth. Memories of signs, 3D reliefs. See-through fabrics and contemporary materials. The challenge that awaits haute couture.”
Madame de Vinteul